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  1. In Topic: Question on Engine Code

    Posted 16 Jul 2018

    Your definition of fun and mine must be two completely different things. lol The only response from the shop I brought it to is they would have to see it again to try and diagnose the problem. Which is to be expected however I'm not sure my confidence level in them being that other them them doing some diagnostics and putting some new parts on it the truck is exactly the same as when I brought it in. I'm not doubting the work they did on it was completely unjustified and wouldn't complain if they did a couple extra repairs that needed done but might not be necessary to fix the problem if they actually fixed the problem. I see no change from when I brought it in to now. Maybe they never replicated the problem after the repairs and thought it was fixed, I don't know. I can drive it all day without making the code come back if I just avoid maintaining 2500 rpm and this was something that I didn't think to try before I brought it in. I assumed it was speed related (65-75 mph area) and towing related. Which is false now that I tested my new theory. Doesn't matter if I'm towing or what speed the light only flashes at that magic 2500 rpm spot.

    Yes they did a smoke check on it. At least they said they were going to so have to believe it was done.

    I'll take a look and see what I can do with the info you provided. Also I'll get in and take a look at the crank position sensor see what condition it's in and see if excess oil or corrosion might be an issue. I can't do the relearn myself so after I see what it looks like I will see about getting the relearn done. Self diagnostics is not what I'm setup for. I'm working with a Maxidiag 703 (which I'm not even fully versed on taking full advantage of I'm sure) and a home shop. And it's not a high-tech shop by any means. I make a lot of my "specialty tools" the same way I fab most of my own racing components for the car. If I had to buy all that stuff my racing schedule would be even less then it is now. Luckily this year I've had very little in repairs need to the car "knock on wood" so it's helped keep me going and get a few more nights in. Which is also part of the frustration with spending money on the truck with no improvement as is comes out of the "play" budget.

    The basic stuff I can track down and do myself. However the more complex stuff I leave to the experts and bring it in. However the repairs I can't do are far enough between that I have no real relationship with a shop so finding someone trustworthy is the trick. If I lived closer you'd have already seen my truck and you could be getting paid for this free advice you've been giving. I do appreciate it very much.
  2. In Topic: Question on Engine Code

    Posted 13 Jul 2018

    New bit of info. I can trigger the check engine light in any gear if I hold 2500 rpm. No code higher or lower. Could it be a crank position sensor problem?
  3. In Topic: Question on Engine Code

    Posted 13 Jul 2018

    So this project has gotten beyond frustrating. I spent some time narrowing things down and still have not fixed the problem. Just as routine maintenance the fuel filter, wires and plugs have been replaced. I wasn't expecting these to solve the problem but they were past due needing done and wanted to eliminate the variables. I was suspect that it could be a vacuum leak and started going through lines, gaskets, and seals while checking and cleaning sensors. PS the plunger on an air idle control valve can really be fun to find when you let it run off the end of the screw testing it. During this process I replaced the MAP sensor due to a torn seal (probably from me removing it) and it was pretty crusted up anyway. Probably could have got by with just a cleaning but the torn seal dictated the replacement. At this point a test drive was looking like good for no check engine light until right at the end. At least this time it resulted in a new code; "Engine rpm higher then expected" (don't recall the number or exact text). So my first thought is to focus more on the vacuum leak thinking its getting extra air. So I start going over it again and then come across this.

    Attached File  IMG_20180703_190949_opt.jpg (42.38K)
    Number of downloads: 2

    Apparently the cruse control cable is occasionally hanging up and not always rotating not allowing the throttle to return all the way closed. So hopes up that I was onto something I fixed this and fingers crossed. Well it did fix the "Engine rpm higher then expected" code but still not the random miss fire.

    Along the way I feel I have corrected some problems (I believe there were multiple contributing) and no longer have a check engine light that stays on. However I do get a flashing check engine light that happens around 65-75 mph and at times when pulling a trailer.

    So admitting defeat it's time to bring it to a shop an have someone with better equipment and experience fix it. This is where the real frustration comes in. I get a call that after their diagnostics I have a leaking EGR tube and a sticking vacuum purge valve. Just happy to get it over with I have them do the repairs. So I pick up the truck and no check engine light on the way home (all highway 60 mph and under). However today the real test on the expressway low and behold the same flashing check engine light between 65-75 mph. So the repair shop will be getting a call today. I want to believe that the repairs they did were necessary and don't doubt there are multiple things going on with an older truck like this. I'm hesitant to have them look at it further if it's going to end up costing me more money and them not knowing it they've really fixed the problem. I don't have a problem paying for legitimate work done. However just taking guesses at what part to replace until the problem gets fixed is what I was trying to avoid and quite honestly could do myself.
  4. In Topic: T.J. Gilbert Injured at I96

    Posted 22 May 2018

    It was definitely a a violent wreck. To hit the wall with that kind of force on the top of the cage is just something you would never expect to happen. Glad to see it wasn't worse then it could have been.
  5. In Topic: Question on Engine Code

    Posted 24 Apr 2018

    View Postmod911, on 24 April 2018 - 08:57 AM, said:

    Check the intake gaskets for leaks,they leak under high vacuum conditions such as cruise and decel. Does the light ever FLASH? Be glad its a 6 litre since they are not a DOD motor. A partly clogged injector will give similar results. Look at mode 6 data or watch misfire COUNTER rack up misfires cyl by cyl live. A scanner is of little help mostly,people ask for their codes to be checked and when I say pxxx they say what is that. They already knew since their bud or auto zonnies get them the code. They must be expecting maajic instructions to fix it for free....AS I tell people when they ask me THE question......DO you do diagnostics? I just YES, we do.....NEXT come THE question.....Do you charge for it? I say yes and they say just for checking codes,isn't that customer service? I say whats your name,put in my data base and up comes NOTHING....I say but you are not a customer......well I would be maybe if you give me something free that I already have....I then say, why do you expect the SMARTEST guy in the room to work for free? I pay monthly for information about 4 hundred PLUS the cost of a Snappy top line diagnostics platform + updates and other expensive quickly outdated equipment....

    Search for clues is the best advice....coils are rare fix,injectors too unless someone take a probe or power wire to them....clean throttle bore first....spray water with some wiper fluid in it and see if it make a worse misfire there is a good place to look....

    I'm a bit slow on the keyboard and got side tracked so my previous reply was before I saw yours. Thanks for the tips it gives me a couple more tools to self diagnose.

    In case you haven't noticed the smartest guy in the room is always expected to work for free. I have never understood though why people feel that someone should provide a service for free. Just because you don't hand them a physical product doesn't mean there is no work or cost of equipment involved.

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Member Title:
Touring series rookie
Age Unknown
Birthday Unknown
Hastings, MI

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  1. Photo

    crankin cor Icon

    04 Sep 2010 - 11:24
    You guys get paid 100 to start for sportsman? Wow! I blew there doors off at the Woodtic 100 up at Merritt Speedway - they paid me 125 could not believe it that was a joke- no more season pass for myself and crew
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